Sikkim

Sikkim is India's least populous state and, by most measures, its cleanest. The draw is altitude: Tsomgo Lake at 12,400 ft, Nathula on the old Silk Route at 14,140 ft, Yumthang's valley of flowers in the north, and Gurudongmar at 17,800 ft for those who acclimatise well.

Permits are not optional. Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit for Nathula, Tsomgo and all of North Sikkim; foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit and cannot visit Nathula at all. Permits are issued against a confirmed tour operator and a photo ID, which is why almost nobody does Sikkim independently.

Gangtok is the base for East Sikkim, Pelling for the west and Lachung or Lachen for the north. Altitude gain is fast here — Gangtok to Gurudongmar is nearly 12,000 ft of climb — so itineraries build in acclimatisation days for a reason.

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